Sunday, October 17, 2004

Surfed for the first time since Labor Day saturday. Testing out the gimpy ankle, it seemed to hold up pretty good but was sore for a minute after every ride. Although a day later it seems to be showing no ill effects. Surfed a spot that has been mostly dead the last several years but seems to have awoken lately. Got a small south west swell with some west mixed in and a really high tide. Only got a few waves but got one really good, wide open dry barrel that I was able to pull out of. The whole wave my ankle was going "be careful, be careful" but I was able to hang on and pull it off. After that I got a big set that I would normally have stuck for a backdoor barrel but it was so crossed up and wedging, and my ankle was going "no! no! No!" that a chickened out when I saw that I was going to have to stick a heavy airdrop with a big barrel. I was basically almost dropping in when I ditched my board and luckily didn't go over the falls. I was sorta pissed I pussed out but when I get analytical about it I am glad I didn't go because I know I would have blown out my ankle for sure. To be specific, my barrel ride wave was about shoulder high and my puss out wave was slightly overhead at the peak. Hopefully I will have more sessions to write about soon.